With Its Air Of Mystique, Saperavi Is Here To Warm Up Winter Nights

Georgian vineyard landscape

Wines of Georgia

The winter season brings with it a desire for warmth and richness – qualities that are beautifully encompassed by Saperavi from Georgia. This wine, with its full-bodied structure, powerful tannic mouthfeel, and potent flavors of black fruit, is perfect on cold winter nights. Its unique composition complements hearty dishes, making it an excellent choice for holiday dinners or cozy gatherings around the fireplace.

Christy Canterbury MW on Saperavi

The ancient and thoroughly Georgian grape variety, Saperavi, carries an air of mystique due to its uncertain origins, according to Master of Wine Christy Canterbury. “Its exact origin is lost to time,” she says, but it is believed to have been born in either southwestern Georgia or the Black Sea coast. It is the most cultivated black grape in Georgia, yet it only makes up 10% of total vineyards.

Known for its rare features, with red pulp giving rise to dark wines, Saperavi’s name aptly translates to paint or dye. Saperavi wine’s dense and rich flavor profile makes it a wonderful companion to the meat-centric, hearty dishes of Kakheti in eastern Georgia. This is a characteristic that sets it apart from other red wines when it comes to food pairing, says Canterbury.

The traditional Georgian winemaking method of using qvevri, large earthenware vessels, imparts a unique tannic feel to the Saperavi, one that Canterbury describes as being “furry” — akin to the texture of a wire-haired dog’s fur rather than a fluffy one. This gives these wines more texture and density than their classic, European-styled counterparts.

Dark-skinned Saperavi grapes

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A Landscape of Mountains and Rivers

The terroir of Georgia, characterized by its diversity due to the country’s topography, certainly influences Saperavi wines. “Soils vary greatly in Georgia because 85% of the country is mountainous and there are many rivers,” says Canterbury. The Left Bank of the Alazani River, for example, produces more red fruit-driven wines due to its cooler climate, while the warmer Right Bank yields wines with more of a black fruit character.

In many cases, modern winemaking techniques have been incorporated to build upon the traditional methods, resulting in high-quality Saperavi wines. Some of these wines are now made in a “middle-of-the-road style,” according to Canterbury, being produced in qvevri before aging in oak barrels.

Saperavi Wines to Try

These wines express diversity for a range of palates and will satisfy even experienced wine drinkers looking to try an intriguing category. Canterbury suggests Saperavi from Georgia options such as Zurab Tsereteli and Barbale Mukuzani—made in stainless steel then aged in oak, or Tbilvino Qvevris Saperavi and Teleda Orgo Saperavi—made in the traditional qvevri. These wines, with their distinct characteristics and diverse styles, offer a taste of Georgia’s rich winemaking heritage.

An oven-roasted lamb shank, seasoned with rosemary and garlic, is a winter meal home run pairing for Saperavi. For a menu with regional roots, try pairing it with a traditional Georgian Khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread that provides a comforting, savory counterpoint to the wine’s fruit-forward profile. Vegetarian dishes, like a lentil and root vegetable stew, can also stand up to Saperavi’s bold character, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is ideal for winter dining.